Hola family and friends.
Today started out with an uneventful morning - the path was not particularly pretty but it was relaxing and peaceful. No towns or villages. And, once again, we were the only peregrinos. With easy terrain, cooler temperature and a light breeze I hoped today's walk would be that much easier for The French - or at least not make things worse.
We arrived in Castro del Rio soon after 1pm. From then on the day took an unexpected turn - and turned out to be one of those funny, surprising, magical days that I tend to think could only happen on The Way. But that's a story on its own - and I'll write about that tomorrow.
Later, quite some hours later, as we were winding down after our eventful afternoon, and discussing provisions for tomorrow's 40 km walk (with no towns, villages or water sources), I told Domi that I wanted to say something to him and to please not say no immediately. I asked him to think about whether it's a good idea to walk 40 kms tomorrow given the state of his foot. I'd broached the topic before but he wasn't buying! No hurry to decide, I said, but just to think about it. And I'll go along with whatever he chooses.
This morning he said he thought his foot was improving but I could see that it really took a toll on him today. He still set a strong pace but was quieter than usual and keen to sit down as soon as we arrived in Castro del Rio. The affected area is getting bigger and it's right on the ball of his left foot - I was horrified when I saw how it looked this afternoon - so no doubt he can feel every single step. While he walked 20 kms in pain, I continued to ask how he was going 'Ca va?', but only every now and then, hoping to walk on the right side of that fine line between being caring and annoying!
Well The French has just come to tell me that he has decided we need to take a bus to Córdoba tomorrow. He's so disappointed, and apologetic to me! But he knows it's the best decision - especially if we want to have any chance of continuing in a few days time. I just said I'm sure it's the right decision and I am proud of him as I know it's the last thing he wants to do. And if it were me with that hideous blister, we'd have stopped days ago.
It may sound like the obvious choice - a 'no brainer'. But peregrinos are a stubborn lot. When you set out on the Camino - any Camino - your strong wish and intention is to walk every step. Every pilgrim I've ever met has been the same. It's part of The Way. And one of the hardest lessons for any pilgrim is to know when to stop or at least take a break. You have to let go of your plans, your expectations and ... your pride. Not easy. But I think Domi is relieved now he's made the decision. And so am I.
With that done, and The French more amenable to investigating treatment options, we walked SLOWLY to the farmacia. With the help of some sign language, google translate, and a showing of the affected foot, we soon walked out with antibiotic cream, gauze bandages - and Amoxycillin tablets you would only get on prescription in Australia or France. That's the Spanish Way. Then it was time for me to find the bus stop and timetable for tomorrow morning. A bit of Spanglish with the friendly locals, and that was easily done. Instead of 10 hours walking uphill and down in temperatures climbing to 30+, it will take about 45 minutes in the local bus to reach Córdoba. Voila!
We are looking forward to a relaxing time there, especially for The French. We had already planned to be there for two nights, to have time to visit the Mezquita (famous mosque cathedral of Córdoba). And we have a hotel booked. Hopefully the break will help Domi recover sufficiently to resume walking on the 8th, as planned. I know that's what he wants. Nous verrons ca. We will see that. If not, I'm sure we will be able to find another adventure that requires less walking before rendezvous with our friend Rosanne in Seville on the 16th. But fingers crossed!
Before I sign off, thank you for being in touch Helen (Mum), Helen C, Audrey, Rosanne, Marian, Mandi, Amanda and Annette (if you read this. Annette - love those wine glasses, thank you!).
Sending love and best wishes. And I'll have plenty of time tomorrow to write about the events of this afternoon. For the moment, I'll just say that our adventures in Castro del Rio involved the local policia, Miguel, and Miguel's mother in law, Isabel.
Jenny and The (injured) French xx
Always comforting to know you're on the right track!
A look back at Baente this morning
Magnificent red poppies in the distance
Three hours in - breakfast leftovers (tostada, jamon and jam), al fresco. Strawberry jam and jamon, a yummy combination. I'm not joking.
First look at Castro del Rio - further away than it looks. Still about 45 minutes to old town.
First stop in Castro del Rio - Miguel's cafe.
I've mastered ordering my coffee! Americana doble con poco leche, aparte. Leche, calientas, por favor! That wasn't our last encounter with Miguel. More on that tomorrow.
With directions from Miguel, we make our way through the narrow, winding streets to the municipal albergue - the only accommodation in town
On the way, this courtyard caught my eye. Quick photo, as The French walked ahead. Was surprised to notice it was the local police station. Becomes important later.
Found the municipal albergue. Locked. Tried the telephone number. No luck.
To be continued ...
