It's early Friday morning here on 24 April. The French and I are in Englefontaine, a small town about 90 minutes north east of Villers-Bretonneux, at the home of our friends Martine and Guy - we met while walking the Camino Primitivo last October. I usually write my blog at night but, after arriving around 5 last night and enjoying a wonderful dinner and catch up, it was time to sleep.
And soon it will be time to get up. For now all I can hear are the birds twittering outside - clear blue skies again - but no doubt the rest of the household will stir before long so I will have to be brief, not my forte!
When I last wrote we had left Deauville and, en route to Mont St Michel, had visited the memorial and burial place of George John Howard. From Bayeux we made our way to our next stop, Fleur de Sel, a gorgeous B&B in Roz-sor-Coursenon, about 10 kms from Mont St Michel. What a perfect choice - thank you, Domi. Charming rooms, tranquil surroundings, a warm welcome - and the most enormous breakfast, everything home made. If you're planning to visit Mont St Michel, and travelling by car, Fleur de Sel is a great base.
We visited Mont St Michel twice - at night and again the next day. Our first visit was by car to the parking area, then by shuttle bus (just 10 minutes). Stunning to see this extraordinary place at night, not too crowded, leisurely dinner in one of the quieter restaurants. Unfortunately a little too leisurely. We misunderstood the timing of the tide and only caught the last of it. Many of you will know of or have seen the tides of Mont St Michel - so apologies for providing so little information in this brief update - but if you'd like to know more, let Wikipedia be your friend.
The next morning we made our return visit - this time on foot - about two and a half hours each way, but an easy walk on a clear day with a light breeze. Our first 'training walk' for the Camino Mozarabe - perhaps too little, too late. But as The French likes to say, 'Nous verrons ca' - We'll see that'. Back to Mont St Michel - on our second visit, very crowded but still wonderful. The abbey is a highlight - I've included just a few photos to give you an idea. And lunch was a treat. The French had suggested a picnic and kindly carried the bread, chorizo, matured goats cheese and a half bottle of red. High on Mont St Michel we found a peaceful spot in the sun and away from the crowds. The French reminded me that we had met on the same day, 22 April, a year ago on the Camino Le Puy in France. A lot has happened since then. Voila!
Yesterday morning it was time to leave Fleur de Sel and make our way to the home of Martine and Guy. Amiens is on the way and Villers Brettoneux just a short detour. Amiens is the departure town if we decide to leave from there on Anzac morning and take the shuttle bus. And Villers Bretonneux is about 16 kms away
I've noticed in our travels that The French often likes to do a reconnaissance, an understandable remnant of his military days. As we will be arriving, whether in Amiens or in Villers, in the early hours of the morning and amid huge crowds, The French was keen to drive through Amiens and pay a quick visit to Villers - and I'm so glad we did!
Approaching Boulevard Alsace-Lorraine in Amiens I was surprised, and a little overwhelmed, to see the street lined with Australian flags. But the real highlight was Villers Bretonneux - wandering through this small village, unremarkable in most ways, but with such a strong sense of our shared history. We stayed for some hours. While there were few people around, we chatted with some other Australians and visited the Franco-Australian museum - where the story of the deep connection between Australia and Villers Brettoneux is simply and beautifully told. The crowds will arrive today, and 13,000 are expected at tomorrow's dawn service (5,000 last year). And it dawned on us that The French's idea for a reconnaissance was inspired. We had the opportunity to visit this place in our own time, walk at our own pace along uncrowded streets, on a bright sunny day. Tomorrow will be a different story.
We will leave Guy and Martine's home at around 1am (with a thermos of hot coffee), arrive in Villers by 2.30, walk the 3kms from the parking area outside of the town to the Australian War Memorial, and hopefully arrive by 3am. Even with such an early start, I doubt we will get a seat. It's likely to be very cold on an open field in the early hours of the morning and rain is predicted - but we will be happy to be there. Makes you think how very different it was for those young men who had battled to save Villers Bretonneux and finally succeeded through the night of 24 and early hours of 25 April in 1918. Twelve hundred Australians died in the battle to save Villers-Bretonneux.
Time to sign off, thank you for your emails over last few days.
A bientot.
Jenny and The French. xx
Children at lunch recess today, Victoria school in Villers Bretonneux - permanent sign
